Sunday, December 10, 2023

Morocco ~ Tagines, Kasbahs and the Desert!

**A BIG thank you to Qatar Foundation International, along with Craig Cangemi and Katie Aslan, for making this trip happen!  Each adventure deepens my understanding of the Arabic speaking world.

July 31-August 14, 2023

CASABLANCA

Our trip with G Adventures (a travel company out of Canada) began in Casablanca where we gathered as group with members from Hong Kong, Germany, Great Britain, and Canada.  I was the lone American representing the stars and stripes.


During our first meal together, we were introduced to Morocco's most famous and delicious meal: tajine.  Tajine refers to the clay vessel with a cone-shaped lid that is often used to cook the meat, spices, vegetables, and served on a bed of couscous.







TANGIERS

We made a very brief stop in the city of Tangiers.  This city is located on the Straight of Gibraltar, only a one hour ferry ride to Spain.  We toured the medina (the old part of the city), enjoyed a delicious meal of couscous, and marveled at the walled city.






CHEFCHAOUEN
Founded in 1471, Chefchaouen is located in the Rif Mountains.  Nicknamed the "Blue Pearl" of Morocco, this city was not always painted blue.  It wasn't until the 1900's that locals painted their buildings gorgeous shades of blue and there are different theories to explain the change.  One theory is due to the influx of Jews fleeing persecution in Europe and blue is seen as a color representing the sky bringing people closer to God.  Other reasons include repelling mosquitoes and creating a feeling of coolness.  Either way, Chefchaouen is a hot, new Instagram site. 


 Roommate Picture



Went on a four hour hike in the Rif Mountains overlooking Chefchaouen. 

Lunch in a small village where we enjoyed the MOST delicious 
tagine (secret ingredient:  saffron!)



ANCIENT ROMAN RUINS of VOLUBILLIS
Near the Moroccan city of Meknes, this ancient Roman city was founded in the 3rd century BC and was the farthest Roman city on their western front.  Once known for its important role in producing grains, the ancient city is now known for its beautiful mosaics.



Lunch at the HOMLUNCH (AFER Women's Association)
This organization works to support differently-abled individuals within the local community, 19 literacy programs focusing on Arabic and French, and the operation of two ambulances.  We enjoyed a meal of "wedding" chicken.











FES (Fez or Fās)
Fes is the known as the cultural capital of Morocco. Founded on the banks of the Wadi Fes in 789, the medina is a UNESCO World Heritage site and home to more than 100,000. The Fes El Bali walled medina is home to many handicrafts that have made Morocco famous. We visited a mosaic and pottery workshop (Art D'Argile), a tannery (Tannery of Fes) and a weaving shop.  Wandering the medina was mind boggling as there are over 9,000 narrow roads.  No cars or motorized vehicles are permitted so people use push carts and animals to maneuver their belongings are wares through the streets.

The smell of the tannery was OVERWHELMING.  The owners kindly gave us spearmint to help offset the odors.

From the process beautiful leather goods are produced, including poufs!



Gorgeous handwoven fabrics were turned into scarves!

9,000 narrow streets helped to create a labyrinth certain to challenge anyone.
Chipping away at larger tiles to create mosaics and lovely painted pottery filled this workshop.

 Community baking in the medina.  Very HOT


Delicious Moroccan bread from the community oven.


Dinner at Palais La Medina

A dinner out where we were entertained with various Moroccan musical groups, two belly dancers and a magic show.  The evening ended with two members from the audience were dressed in traditional clothing and brought on stage for a marriage ceremony.  The restaurant is in a gorgeous riad (Arabicرياضromanizedriyāḍa traditional Moroccan house that is usually two stories and with an inner courtyard.  Notice the mosaics, woodwork and carved plaster. 







MERZOUGA ~ Life in the Sahara Desert
Following a long, hot, 10 hour drive from Fez to the Sahara Desert.  As you would expect, it was HOT😰...

...but BEAUTIFUL



Our accommodations were luxurious with spacious rooms, handwoven fabrics for curtains and bedspreads, and a pool out of a movie set.  The desert was right out the back of the hotel.
  

In the morning we went went on a 4x4 excursion around the dunes, shared tea and a grilled pizza-like snack with an Amazigh (/æməˈzɪɡ/ in Berber:   ⵉⵎⴰⵣⵉⵖⵏ, ⵎⵣⵗⵏ)  family, and drove around the local village in order to meet the driver's family.

Falling in love with Ghanaianmusic, very popular in the south of Morocco.




 Spending time with an Amazigh (Berber) family.









The nationally recognized flag of the Amazigh people who are scattered across 10 north African countries.  The red symbol means "free-man"




The afternoon was spent poolside.


The evening was camel ride to see the sunset.






TODRA GORGE and AN OASIS
The gorge is wedged between massive cliffs and filled with a green oasis of palm trees.

                                                       Walking through the oasis


                                                                Todra Gorge

AIT BEN HADDOU KASBAH ~ a UNESCO World Heritage Site
Located along a former caravan route between Marrakech and the Sahara Desert, this village is an excellent example of a group of earthen buildings surrounded by high walls known as ksar.  The houses crowd together with the defensive walls, which are reinforced by corner towers.  We walked up to the Kasbah on the hill, affording excellent views of the countryside.  
Numerous movies have filmed in this location, most recently GLADIATOR 2.  
Sunrise next to the Kasbah

View from the Kasbah

The Kasbah  

In the evening, I participated in a tagine cooking class.  LOVED💖 this and I enjoyed eating my creation.  
                               



Notice that the tagine pots all cook over individual burners.


AROUMD VILLAGE at the foothills of the ATALS MOUNTAINS
Under a light rain, we hiked up the Atlas Mountains to the small village of Aroumd (elevation of 6,467 feet)where we spent the evening in a hostel ~ like setting (officially known as a gîte).  We were welcomed with tea and the most delicious popcorn cooked in sunflower oil.  While hiking we had views of Mount Toubkal (elevation of 13,671 feet).




Hiking to our accommodations


A delicious tagine in our hostel

ESSAOUIRA, a coastal town
This town is probably my favorite stop on this tour.  The town is protected by sea ramparts from the 18th century called the Skala de la Kasbah.  Catering to tourists, mostly locals, the medina had an energetic vibe with lots of shopping and chatty store owners.
I tried prickly pear cactus for the first time and I marveled at the silver market.
 
A view of the Atlantic Ocean


The clocktower located on Oqba Ben Nafi Avenue 


Eating prickly pear cactus




Night Life!






MARRAKECH

On the grounds of the Bahia Palace



Shopping in the medina


OLIVES!!


Fresh JUICE!



The Koutoubia Mosque's minaret has been watching over the old city since the Almohads erected it in the 12th century.  
No building may be taller than this mosque in Marrakech


Last night in Morocco!

Survival of the fittest!  No air-conditioning and long car rides but we did it! 



LOVE 💖our guide: Sofia Aissam




CATS of MOROCCO





No one knows why there are so many cats in Morocco but few are adopted as pets within a home and most live on the streets and around store fronts.😸

🐈One interesting belief in Morocco is that if you have a deep desire, you should whisper it into the cat's ear and feed it food.  If that cat accepts your food, the wish will come true.🐈











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